It was at the very top of our “must do again” list when we revisited New Zealand in March 2025. Almost exactly 20 years had passed since we last swam with the large pods of dolphins off the coast of Kaikoura, on the South Island.

This time, it was the very first thing we pre-booked once we knew our travel dates—and also the activity we looked forward to the most. Our 2005 swim had been unforgettable, and we had high hopes as we planned Kaikoura as the first stop on our New Zealand road trip adventure.

We were up before dawn. At 5 a.m., Kaikoura was pitch black and quiet—except for the handful of us heading out for the first dolphin encounter at 6 a.m. Dolphin Encounter is the only operator offering dolphin swimming in Kaikoura, and they run it with complete commitment to both the dolphins and the environment. They even support their own charity, the Encounter Foundation.

Their operation is impressively professional. We checked in at their HQ on the Esplanade and were greeted by smiling staff—though even the roosters hadn’t quite woken up yet. By 6 a.m., we were in the changing rooms, kitted out with wetsuits, masks, snorkels, and fins in every possible size. After a short introductory video, we were split into two groups, one for each boat. Then, after a quick bus ride to the jetty, we joined the strange parade of rubber-clad adventurers filing onto the boats and heading out to sea.

As the sun’s golden disc peeked over the horizon, the search for dolphin pods began. We felt as giddy as children, waiting for the call—and sure enough, it didn’t take long.

Within minutes we were surrounded by hundreds of bottlenose dolphins, frolicking in the sunrise. It was a breathtaking sight. All around us, dolphins leapt, spun, and seemed to be having just as much fun as we were. Our boat moved ahead of the pod, and with a splash, we were in the water.

To get the dolphins’ attention, the trick is to mimic their playfulness—swim in circles, dive, and make plenty of noise through your snorkel. Dolphins live in a world of sound, and their curiosity brings them right up to you. Both Tanja and I had dolphins swirling around us, checking us out as we “sang” into our snorkels. Being in the water as hundreds of dolphins streamed past was nothing short of magical.

For the next hour, the rhythm continued: climb back on board, race ahead of the pod, and jump in again for another encounter. Time flew. When it was over, the adrenaline left us buzzing. What an epic reminder of how alive and connected to nature you can feel in a single moment!

Back on the boat, we swapped wetsuits for dry clothes, wrapped our hands around hot drinks, and watched dolphins leaping in the soft glow of sunrise. How lucky were we to experience this a second time? Even writing about it now, almost six months later, I feel tears welling up—that’s how powerful the memory remains. If you’re in New Zealand, this is beyond a “must do.”

Back at Dolphin Encounter HQ, we returned our gear, thanked the crew, and sat down for a brilliant breakfast in the Encounter Café—the perfect ending to our perfect morning in Kaikoura. We walked back to our motel to shower, and spent a few hours looking around Kaikoura with its spectacular backdrop of snow clad mountains.

We had been here before and we found the same fish and chips shop we visited last time we were here in 2005. Nothing like a bit of nostalgia before heading out on the highway south towards Fiordland.