• Alhambra Palace and Fortress
• A Short Visit to Granada
• How To Eat For Free In Andalusia
• Cabo de Gata National Park
• Alicante
• Girona
• Sant Quirze De Colera Monastery
• Costa Brava
• Barcelona Hotels
• Alella Wine District

Alhambra Palace and Fortress Complex, Granada

Alhambra is Spain’s most visited monument, with approx. 2 million people visiting per year, and that breaks down to around 8500 people per day. The palace and fortress are situated in the city of Granada in southern Spain’s Andalusia region.

The Al-Hamra` palace was built in the mid-13^th century by the Arab Nasrid emir Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar of the Emirate of Granada. It was converted into a royal palace in 1333 by Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada.

The Fountain of the Lions alabaster fountain and basin with 12 marble lions to symbolize strength, power and sovereignty. At the edge of the fountain there is a poem written by Ibn Zamrak. This praises the beauty of the fountain and the power of the lions, but it also describes their ingenious hydraulic systems and how they actually worked, which baffled all those who saw them.

After the Christian Reqonquista in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella, and it was in this palace that Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition to sail the “wrong way” to India, and thus discovering the Americas.

This is the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice), a massive horseshoe archway surmounted by a square tower and used by the Moors as an informal court of justice. 

Access from the city to the Alhambra Park is afforded by the Puerta de las Granadas (Gate of Pomegranates), a triumphal arch dating from the 15th century. A steep ascent leads past the Pillar of Charles V, a fountain erected in 1554, to the main entrance of the Alhambra. 

A Short Visit to Granada

We would like to call this a short visit, just because we did not have too much time in Granada, just two nights, and the majority of one day was used at what most people come to Granada for, the Alhambra palace.

The Alhambra palace and fortress from the 13^th century is the most visited monument in Spain, with approx. 8500 people per day buying tickets to see the Arabic architecture and wonders of the Alhambra. Read more about our visit here.

From the city centre of Granada the Alhambra is present from every corner with its elevated position above the city. The best place to get a great view of the palace and buildings is to walk up the hill to the Albaicin area for an epic sunset view from San Nicolàs or Santa Isabel La Real church.

Albaicín is a neighborhood in Granada that maintains the layout of Medieval Moorish narrow streets. With its neat narrow lanes and well-kept traditional houses, the area has retained its old charm and is the ideal place to discover Moorish architecture.

We walked from Plaza De Santa Ana and up along the river past some of the spectacular old residences, old bridges and lots of cosy cafés, this is a touristy area, but it is a must see when in Granada. When you feel like it, just start walking up the small alleys and streets towards the top of the mountain. Check out Love Granada’s Albaicin tips.

Also worth mentioning is that Granada is one of the few places left in Spain that still serve free tapas with drinks at the bars and bodegas around town. We had some great cheap meals while visiting. Read more about our experience in the tapas bars of Granada here.

The cathedral of Granada is also a grand sight. It took 181 years to build, and the site was the location of the Great Mosque of Granada for over 600 years. Construction of the new church started in 1523, and the standout design triumphs include the awe-inspiring cupola and the grand church organ. The church has a kind of weird placement, normally you think that a grand cathedral should have a grand plaza or something like this at the front, but this cathedral is built in on all sides by other buildings. No grand square here, just alleys and a small patio style entrance to one of the most amazing churches in Spain.

We stayed at the sublime Eurostars Gran Via hotel, it has grand views from the roof terrace and location wise it is smack bang in the middle of where you need to be to explore Granada.

If you are driving into the city centre with a car, you need a good GPS! It is a maze of small narrow streets, alleys, and even smaller alleys. We were sure we were stuck in a narrow passage more than once trying to navigate to the nearest parking garage to the hotel.

Plaza de Bib-Rambla and Plaza de la Romanilla are the two main plazas in the area surrounding the cathedral, and the streets around the plazas are the main shopping areas of Granada.

We visited during easter, and it was quite cold and wet during our visit. It is worth to remember that Granada sits on the Sierra Nevada mountains at an elevation of around 700 metres abrove sea level. In fact just a short car ride from Granada is the Sierra Nevada ski resort home to the southernmost skiing destination in Europe. And while the winter can get quite chilly and wet, the summers get equally scorching and hot in Granada, temperatures often hitting 40 celcius during summer.

We would have loved to spend some more time in Granada, the city deserves it for sure, we only got a fleeting impression of the main parts of the city. The history of the place is very interesting, and the juxtaposition of Arabic and European styles of architecture and the city’s layout is very different indeed. We will come back one day for sure to see more and to eat more of that delish tapas.

How To Eat For Free In Spain’s Andalusian Region (The Tapa Experience)

The tasty tapas of Spain are well known for most tourists who have visited any Spanish town or island, and if you have not ever eaten at a tapas restaurant or bodega, you are in for a treat next time you are in Spain! And like our friend Geir said: “If you have not ever eaten at a tapas restaurant or bodega, you haven’t really been to Spain”. What is served as a tapa varies according to region but in general it is a mouthful of something simple, practical, and cheap. From ready made snacks such as olives and nuts, to all things fried and cured. The patatas bravas (spiced roasted potatoes), the croqueta, the guiso (stew) and of course our favourite, the Spanish ham (jamon) will all be on the menu in any tapas restaurant around the country.

Tapas were invented in Andalusia. The word means “cover” and in Andalusian wine-making regions, a saucer is customarily placed to cover a glass of wine to keep the little fruit flies from swarming in. There are plenty of stories from around Spain as to how and where the tapas originated, and why it is called a tapa, but this is probably the most accurate one of them all. A tidbit of food placed on the dish helped attract clients to the wine bar or bodega, and thus the tapas were born.

Years ago the tapas used to be free with drinks all around Spain. Today, tapas bars in most of Spain either charge for tapas or give out paltry bar snacks, like chips, nuts or a few olives. But in Andalusia, especially in the less-touristed eastern part of the region, the tapas are still free, and the drinks are still cheap.

The first time we encountered free tapas was in Granada at Bar Los Diamantes. We visited the city to see the Alhambra and ended up in what looked like a very local bar with food. We normally wander into any place that looks like it is filled with locals, we know that the food will be good and cheap. We had great hunger, so we ordered beer, wine, and some smaller dishes with food. When the drinks arrived, we also got two plates of food, one with fried small fish and one with patatas bravas.

We then had to ask the waiter if this was our food, and if it was our food, this was not what we ordered. In broken English he told us that this was the food we got with the drinks, and the food we ordered would come in a while. A bit nonplussed we ate the delish plate of food we got with the drinks, and as we were thirsty, we ordered more drinks. With the drinks came some more food! And then our order came! We had suddenly and without knowing dropped into a bar with free tapas, what joy! It was so tasty and cost us absolutely nothing (the food with the drinks) and had we known, we would not have ordered any extra food.

We encountered this a few more times while travelling around Andalusia and got used to ordering a glass or two of wine, and then being offered tasty platters of food together with the wine. We only paid for drinks, never for the food.

How do you know it is free food with drinks?

It is not a question easily answered, one does not simply walk into a bar and ask, “do you have free food with drinks?”. Our recommendation is if you are thirsty, go into a bar or bodega, order a glass of wine and beer, and then see what happens. Some places you will get some olives, some places will serve up huge portions of fried goodness in a basket. Especially in Granada the portions were huge! Tapa-hopping is part of the convivial Andalusian way of life. With a few friends you stop in at several bars to have a glass of wine and sample the tapa specialities of each. It is without a doubt our favourite food!

Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park

Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park in the south-eastern corner of Spain is Andalusia’s largest protected coastal area, a wild and isolated landscape with some of Europe’s oldest geological features. Spain’s southeast coast, where the park is situated, is the only region in mainland Europe with a true hot desert climate.

The park is located between the cities of Alicante and Malaga on the southern coast of Spain. It is probably the only pristine, non-developed, bit of coastline left in Spain.

The eponymous mountain range of the Sierra del Cabo de Gata, with its highest peak El Fraile, form Spain’s largest volcanic rock formation with sharp peaks and crags in red and ochre hues. It falls steeply to the Mediterranean Sea, creating jagged 100-metre (330 ft) high cliffs riven by gullies, creating hidden coves and white, sandy beaches.

We stayed in the small town of San Jose, a fishing village with a few hotels, nice restaurants and a beachfront that is easily accessible from anywhere in town. Our hotel was like most of the hotels in town, a small family run establishment. Hotel Dona Pakyta is nice and has a good location in town.

It is also a movie buffs paradise! Especially for those with a hankering for spaghetti westerns. Numerous films have been produced in the area, due to the desert climate and the similarity to the American western landscape. Not in the park but close by is the Tabernas Desert, most of those locations are now theme parks, but visits are still cool. Movies shot in the Tabernas Desert and in Cabo de Gata includes monumental movies like The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, A Fist Full of Dollars, Laurence of Arabia and Cleopatra and many more. Wikipedia has a good list of what has been filmed on location.

In the park itself, there are some epic locations. The farmhouse at the end of this dirt track between San Jose and the beaches of Monsul and Genovese was used in the spaghetti western featuring Clint Eastwood “For A Few Dollars More”. It was featured as “Alomogordo Prison” where Clint’s character liberates one of his compadres.

Playa de Monsul a bit further up the road was used in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade where father of Indiana Jones (played by Sean Connery) brings down a German fighterplane with the help of his umbrella and a flock of seagulls (that were actually pidgeons). Unique Almeria has a good page on all things movie related.

The beaches in the park are all genuinely nice and big, and due to the lack of development, they are wonderfully “wild” and unspoilt. Cabo de Gata is a great stop on any roadtrip along the southern Spanish coast, if you want to see what Spain pre-development was like, this is the place to go.

Alicante City

For most northern Europeans Alicante is a well-known charter destination for the sun worshipping sun starved northerners. It is more known as a destination than a vibrant Spanish town with great food, plazas and wonderful narrow streets filled with cafes and bodegas. Alicante is blessed with a beach in the city centre, so to combine a weekend of swimming in the sea, eating and drinking in a cosy atmosphere around town, all within a few minutes’ walk of your hotel is no problem. We will compare Alicante to it’s bigger brother Barcelona, both boast a pristine beach in the city and a plethora of restaurants and bars, plus the typical Spanish old town areas with plenty of soul and charm. Alicante is the perfect weekend destination if you crave sun, sea, and delish Spanish food!

The Hotel

It is not so often that we rave about our accommodation, usually a hotel is a hotel, and hotels tends to be quite the same wherever you are. In Alicante we found an exception to that rule. We got a recommendation from a friend in Spain that claimed that the Hospes Amerigo was unique and worth staying at for the nights we had in Alicante. And it was a very cool surprise. The hotel is a former Dominican convent, very nicely done up and decorated in a Mediterranean style interior. All over the hotel you can see the old walls, niches, and remnants of the old convent. Also being a stone throw from the waterfront helps elevate this hotel to an all time favourite.

The Spanish Mercados

An institution we always visit in any Spanish town is the main mercado of the town. The mercado is something we do not have any more in Norway, a grand market where fishmongers, cheesemonger, wine merchants and fruit sellers do their daily business, and the local housewives goes shopping every morning for fresh produce. It is an assault on the senses, the smells, the brightness of the fruit, the colours of the vegetables, it is a fascinating sight for a foodie to walk the mercados of Spain. The other good thing is that the merchants happily hand out small tastes of their produce, with pride they present ham, wine and other small morsels to whet your appetite.

Or you could go for the tasting platters many of them offer, cheap ways to get high quality food from local people who take pride in their craft. The Mercado Central in Alicante in no exception to the rule, it is grand! The eclectic modernist building was completed in 1922, and it is a must see for any visitor to Alicante.

The food!

We realized while going through the photos we took in Alicante that we had eaten a lot of great food while visiting. We love Spanish food, and in Alicante we had many great food experiences in a couple of different establishments. Most of them we just stumbled by and our normal rule being “if there are a lot of locals eating in the bodega/restaurant/café, the food must be good” and normally this rule is king. If you hear non-Spanish languages spoken around the tables, and if you are on the main street or beach promenade of the city, you might expect touristy food and touristy prices.

Do not be afraid to explore the unknown dark bodega, we have ordered mystery items more than a few times when the menu was not in English, and mostly the food we get is delish, even though we are not sure what we ordered. Basically avoid the main streets and beachfronts, stick to the backstreets and local neighbourhoods. And it is worth mentioning that the Spanish eat dinner late, very late compared to us northerners. Many restaurants will not open until 8pm and most locals will not eat until 9-10pm at nights, so if you are early for dinner, the restaurant might seem empty, but that’s just because the locals have not arrived yet.

Just across the street from the Amerigo hotel was a small corner restaurant called Tapa-Caña (D`Tablas) that we stumbled into an afternoon when the hunger was great, and the energy levels were low. Here they served small glasses of beer (cañas) and planks (planchas) of food. The waiters came around the room with trays filled with planks that had some small dish of food on top of it. And they cost 1 Euro per plank! I think the beer was 1 Euro as well. Planks with fried fish, calamari, cheese, sausages, and other tasty morsels came by our table, and we picked what looked good. It was so delish that we came back every day for lunch or dinner, a great way to get cheap drinks and cheap fantastic, tasty food! The address is Calle Rafael Altamira, just across from the Amerigo hotel.

Arroz

Arroz is rice in Spanish. Not to be confused with paella, that is something slightly different. To make an exceptionally long history short, paella is from Valencia region, and not served traditionally with seafood. Arroz is rice dishes served outside Valencia, and the menu will refer to “Arroz con….” And whatever the ingredients for the rice dish should be for the day or region. Both dishes are served in the same type of shallow wide pan. And the rice dishes of Spain are normally eaten for lunch, not dinner. We had some great arroz in Alicante, and we recommend seeking out a traditional bodega that serves this very Spanish deliciousness.

And last but not least we would like to give another shoutout to the humble but might Spanish bodega! The number of mouth-watering meals we have eaten at those very local restaurants are amazing. Ørjan loves the Spanish ham from the black footed pig, the pata negra (jamòn Ibèrico) ham comes in different qualities and price range. From slightly industrial made mass produced, to artisan almost wild roaming pigs in oak groves eating grass, herbs, acorns, chestnuts, and roots. The curing process of the meat takes at least 12 months, and the best producers cure their ham for up to 48 months. It is mouth-watering good to get a plate of freshly cut ham, the smoky oak like taste is like nothing else, it is pure meat luxury.

Spanish Easter

We happened to be in Alicante during easter holidays, and this is a big thing, if not the biggest thing, on the Spanish calendar during the year. The holy week or Semana Santa is one of the most flamboyant religious festivals to witness, and it is held in every city across Spain from Palm Sunday to Resurrection Sunday.

A series of spectacular weeklong pageants and processions take place to mark the occasion with large floats carrying lifelike figurines and effigies carried by groups of people through the city streets. The floats are paraded through each district by members of the local Catholic fraternity or Brotherhood. A common feature or the processions are the nazareno penitential robe which consists of a tunic and a hood, it looks extremely dramatic and a little disturbing if you do not know what is going on in the processions.

The first time we saw this we had to ask the locals who the hooded figures were. In short those who wear the robe with the pointed hood are persons who seek atonement to repent for sins committed, the hood letting them keep their privacy while walking in the procession. Combine all this with marching bands, kids, roman soldiers and lots of robes and colourful hats, you have the easter processions of Spain. We were so lucky that the local procession walked straight under our hotel room window, so we had front row seats to this spectacle.

The Santa Barbara Castle is located on the top of Benacantil Mountain, 166 metres above sea level; it gives to the city a great strategic value. From there, you can see almost the entire bay of Alicante.

Playa Postiguet is the city beach, great for morning swims or lazy afternoons. There is also a good hotel option on the beach in the Melià Alicante hotel.

A great ramble is to walk the narrow street of the old town just under the Santa Barbara Castle. This neighbourhood is filled with local bars and restaurants, narrow alleyways, and cosy plazas. Plaza Quijano and Plaza Del Carmen behind the cathedral is very charming and great for a drink and some tapas a late lazy evening after a long hard day at the beach. Check out Visit Alicante for more inside tips to a great city and region.

One Hot Afternoon in Girona (Gelato and the Game of Thrones nerds)

Girona is the hot little sister of Barcelona, situated north east in the Spanish province Catalunya, just an hour’s drive from Barcelona, and if you drive past it is only one more hour and you are in France. It is a small but mighty town, just around 100 000 citizens, and it is an extremely popular day trip destination for the Barcelonians. The town is known for the many excellent and award-winning restaurants, you will find a plethora of Michelin star restaurants, the famed El Celler de Can Roca has 3 stars and was voted best restaurant in the world in 2013! And we must not forget the epic gelato shop Rocambolesc where the ice creams could be made by Willy Wonka himself.

We came into Girona on a sweltering hot Spanish afternoon. We had already had a long day exploring the surrounding area of northern Spain, and Girona was our last stop before we were heading home to our hotel on the coast. It is never wise to walk around a city in 35 degrees Celsius heat, we know that, but we had to see Girona, we had been told that it was beautiful. The upside of walking around in the afternoon heat when only mad dogs and Norwegians dare venture out is that few others are around. The day trippers and tourists are gone, and the locals wisely stay indoors in air-conditioned heaven.

Girona blew us away from the first few yards from our car and over the Onyar river where we could look downriver at the very cool penjades-houses that hang precariously over the river like colourful Lego blocks. Over the bridge of Pont de Sant Feliu to the front of the Sant Feliu Basilica. Behind the basilica are the stunning Arab baths (built after the Arabs left), sadly they were closed for the day when we came.

The Carrer de la Forca, which runs south behind the basilica, is part of the Architectural Heritage Inventory of Catalunya for the uniqueness of the street and the buildings on it. It is like stepping back in time walking down the streets and the alleyways jotting off in all directions from the cobbled medieval street. We also found that Girona is full of small independent shops with great selections on everything from clothes to furniture and home décor. We ended up buying a very cool Arabian style carpet that still really ties one of our house rooms together.

We continued after purchasing another gelato to cool off down to Plaza de Catalunya where you can enter the Passeig de Muralla. The walk of the old city wall offers a glimpse of Girona from above and unobstructed views of the nearby Pyrenees Mountains. The route sits atop the eastern city walls, which the Romans first built, then reconstructed in the 14th century, tore down again at the end of the 19th century, and once again restored in recent years. We walked the whole wall and ended up in the neighbourhood behind the awesome cathedral of Girona. The Cathedral and Basilica of San Felix dominates the skyline of Girona. Built on a hilltop above the city, the cathedral boasts the widest Gothic nave in the world. The stairs leading up to the entrance are very cool and will test your stamina. At the bottom of the stairs there are some nice cafes where you can sit, have a drink, and look up at the imposing basilica and imagine being a part of the series Game of Thrones.

The Game of Thrones Connection

When we came to the cathedral, we had to have a little rest in the shade, just to stay on our feet, damn it was hot! We googled some info on the cathedral itself while we rested, and lo and behold, it was used in Game of Thrones! We are both massive fans of GoT, but we had not put two and two together and found out that both the front of the cathedral and the alleys behind had been used for epic scenes in series 6!

One of the most epic scenes from series 6 is when Jamie Lannister rides up the stairs of the Great Sept of Baelor in Kings Landing, and they used the stairs and front of Girona cathedral for those scenes.

If you walk behind the cathedral you are suddenly in Braavos. The corner where Arya Stark is a blind “no one” and begs for money while being attacked by the Waif is there. And the same alley is used for several scenes. Game of Thrones Spain has a great site for locations around Girona town.

This was without a doubt an unexpected highlight for us while in Girona. We walked down the hill from the cathedral and wandered in deserted old convent gardens just doing what we do best, getting a bit lost and finding small gems along the way.

We can really understand why Girona was used for GoT and other movies and series, the number of old buildings, narrow alleys, and sheer number of epic locations in Girona is just staggering. It is such a beautiful place.

We wish we had longer to explore Girona, but the few hours we spent in the heat were truly awesome. So many beautiful buildings, the ancient feel of the whole town, and we would of course like to explore some of the famous restaurants around town, so until next time Girona!

The Hidden Valley of Sant Quirze de Colera Monastery and El Corral de Sant Quirze

Going “off the beaten track” is always great fun. And this little gem is truly hidden in a valley tucked away in the borderlands of the Alberga natural park and mountain range in north eastern Spain. The Alberga mountains are the easternmost section of the Pyrenees. A short trek north and you will be in France. To get to the Vall de Sant Quirze you need a car, and you need a good map or GPS. An alternative is to park your car at the small village of Rabós and walk the picturesque path along rivers and under cork trees the 6 kilometres to the valley. In addition to all the ramblers who walk the mountain trails, the area is also a popular destination for weekend bicyclists.

We were staying at Costa Brava for a week’s summer holiday, and we got a tip from a friend in the area that the restaurant in the valley served fantastic food, and since we are suckers for local produce, we had to take the trip via the valley on our way to Girona.

It was hard to find for sure, and we were sure we were lost a few times on the way. Lots of wine yards in the region, and a lot of cork tree farms (yes, the wine corks come from the bark of a tree) and we passed many trucks filled with cork tree bark on their way to processing.

When we finally found our destination, we were surprised to find a ruin of what looked like an old church in the valley, and it was not a small parish church, it was big! Very fascinating indeed. After a bit of Googling we found that this was the Sant Quirze de Colera monastery and church dating back to the 8^th century! How cool is that? The church was protected in 1931 and has undergone renovations later years, during summer the church and monastery is open for visitors.

Behind the church is the restaurant El Corral de Sant Quirze. This restaurant mainly serves gastronomic fare from the Alt Empordà region, based on home recipes. Charcoal-grilled meats with different garnishes predominate the El Corral de Sant Quirze menu. There are also other house specialities that should be ordered in advance, such as snails, rice casseroles and suquet of ray fish with potatoes. It is quite often full, so booking is recommended. This establishment is in an old farmhouse. The interior is rustic with a large fireplace and the beautiful countryside that surrounds it can be appreciated through all the windows. There is a nice outside patio as well where you can enjoy a coffee after your meal. We had a grand lunch with lots of grilled meat and vegetables, more dinner than lunch, but it was delish!

The hidden valley was totally worth the detour and getting lost on the backroads of Spain is always enjoyable. There are plenty of wine yards to visit, and a few cool places to spend the night if you would like to explore more of the area. Check out Mas Tres Puig for wine and camping options.

We stopped on the way in the small village of Rabós and had a look around. It is a small and very Spanish unspoilt village with an old church the Eglesia Sant Julia from the 14^th century, and it is a starting point of many great hikes in the Alberga natural park. The town is dedicated to agriculture, especially olive trees, and wine. The Moscatell grape is really appreciated in the region. Today, most houses in the village serve as a second residence for people looking for tranquility, as have some artists like the British novelist Martin Shuttleworth and the painter Joan Comella. There is a restaurant in the village, Can Tomas, where the traditional regional cuisine is offered at a really good price.

Costa Brava

Costa Brava is our favourite part of the Spanish mainland coast. Costa Brava boasts some of the best beaches in Spain, from golden sandy stretches of beach to rocky hidden coves and isolated beaches only accessible on foot. There are some incredible hidden beaches to be found. We fell in love with the area after a friend tipped us off about the region when we asked where the Spaniards go on holiday. The Costa Brava starts around 60 kilometres north of Barcelona at the town of Blanes and stretches all the way up to the French border. The coast is dotted with small, charming towns with spotless beaches, and if you get tired of the beach, the interior of this north eastern part of Spain has plenty of wineries, historic towns like Girona and more Michelin star restaurants than you can shake a stick at.

The Coastal Road

From Barcelona we would recommend taking the coastal road up the coast, and do a first small pitstop at Tossa Del Mar to see the spectacular Castell de Tossa Del Mar. Its construction originates in 1187, and it is the only example of a fortified medieval village that still exists on the Catalan coast. Built at the start of the 13th century with battlements for walls, it still has almost the entire original perimeter area. The wall includes four fortified towers and three cylindrical towers topped with machicolations (openings through which stones, hot oil or similar could be dropped onto attackers). A cool stop for a walk, a swim at the spectacular beach, and a spot of lunch along the esplanade.

The coastal road between Tossa del Mar and Sant Feliu de Guixols is pure epicness. One of the more spectacular coastal roads in Spain, it winds and twists along the rugged coastline, and we would compare it to the legendary Highway 1 in California. Along the road are access points to small coves and beaches that get very crowded from the Barcelonians on weekend daytrips in summer.

Cap Roig

The first time we had our summer holiday in Costa Brava, we were recommended an absolute gem of a hotel just north of Platja d’Aro at Cap Roig. The Park Hotel San Jorge sits on top of a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean ocean. The rooms all have spectacular views of the ocean, the pool area is great (although we are not pool people), the restaurant and food were delish and just a few stairs down the cliffs in front of the hotel is the stunning Platja Cala Cap Roig beach. A small golden beach with a great little beach restaurant great for lunch and drinks, and the water is crystal clear. We had an epic week here.

Llafranc

Our next stay in Costa Brava was in the small village of Llafranc and the small Hotel Casamar. Situated at the hill above town, it offers views of the ocean and the golden beach of Llafranc. Like the village, it is not a big hotel and it only has a 2-star rating. The rating is due to the lack of pool and other “necessary” amenities, but the family run hotel and restaurant offers atmosphere in spades and it has a restaurant that received a Michelin star in 2011. We had a few dinners at the restaurant during our stay, and each meal was an epic culinary journey.

The small village of Llafranc is charming and contains a good selection of restaurants and bars. The village beach is stunning and golden like all the beaches in Costa Brava. It gets filled up in summer, so searching for a quiet spot can be hard in high season. We found our little piece of paradise on the rocks along the coastal path that runs between the villages on the Costa Brava. The coastal paths of Costa Brava are famous among ramblers, you can walk between villages and beaches for weeks if you feel like it. Check out the map of the paths if walking is your thing. While walking the path between Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell we found a hidden cove with smooth rocks and easy access to swims in the crystal-clear waters of Costa Brava. We purchased a small cooler, filled it up with drinks and food, and had lazy days on the rocks all alone in our own little slice of paradise.

Calella de Palafrugell

The ancient fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell is formed by several coves that still preserve their charm, Calella de Palafrugell is one of the few places on the Costa Brava which still preserves the authenticity of the villages of the area before the arrival of mass tourism, with narrow streets, steep tiled roofs, and some traditional two-floor fishermen’s dwellings. The small coves all have beaches, and you can find your own spot in any of them. The sand is golden, and the waves are gentle, great for kids. The coastal path runs along the building and old boathouses. Restaurant Fiego at the southern end of the village is stunning with its beach location and absolute mouth-watering food.

If you are after a little more of an authentic Spanish seaside feeling, we would dare to say that the Costa Brava region is the best place to get that experience. For us Costa Brava is a place we will continue to go back to for that peace and quiet, combined with great food and great seaside living.

Cadaqués and Cap de Creus

On the easternmost cape in Spain lies the pretty village of Cadaqués with its whitewashed houses and stunning location in the Cap de Creus natural reserve. The drive to Cadaqués is dramatic, from the plains surrounding Figueres the road climbs dramatically over rugged mountain terrain before diving down towards the sea and the town of Cadaqués. The town is isolated and not very developed and retains its own unique atmosphere. The narrow streets that run down to the harbour and beaches in the city centre are a joy to walk and explore.

We spent a few hours sightseeing and having a look inside the beautiful church of Sant Mary located on the highest hill in the village. In the early 20^th century a large number of inhabitants of Cadaqués emigrated to Cuba, many were financially successful in Cuba and returned to build large and ornate houses. These houses can still be seen in the town, including the Casa Blava (the blue house).

The area is also famous for being the residence and sanctuary of  painter and artist Salvador Dalí in nearby Port Lligat. He lived here with his wife Gala from 1930 to 1982 and created a stunning house that was equal part art installation as it was a dwelling. Other notable artists who used Cadaqués as a refuge and summer retreat was Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Marcel Duchamp and Richard Hamilton. If you want a tour of the Dalí house, you need to book well in advance.

Cap de Creus is the easternmost point in mainland Spain. The ride out to the cape is epic, the road is narrow and filled with switchbacks and tight corners, but it is all worth the frayed nerves when you reach the cape. From the lighthouse the views are amazing, and you can see north to France with ease. The cape itself is filled with trails that lead you to small coves with crystal clear water where you can swim and relax. The whole cape is famed for the trails and paths crisscrossing the landscape.

Cadaqués and Cap de Creus is a splendid day trip from anywhere in north eastern Spain. It is only 2 ½ hours drive from Barcelona. The spectacular scenery and dramatic views are breath taking!

The Medieval Town of Pals

The small medieval town of Pals is probably one of the most charming and cosiest small towns we have ever visited. It could easily be a location for Braavos or King’s Landing in Game of Thrones, it is like travelling back in time. It lies a few kilometres from the coast of Emporda bay in Costa Brava.

The historical centre of Pals has been looked very well after and local traditions and especially gastronomy have been held in high regard right up until modern times. The surroundings are breath-taking, the city is built on a hill with surrounding marsh lands, the name is a derivation of the Latin name “Palus” which means “marshy ground”. If you are hungry during the visit, make sure to order the traditional rice dish Arroz de Pals in any of the restaurants, made with local rice of course.

The town is mentioned as early as the 9^th century, and it was probably inhabited even before this. The circular Romanesque tower Torre de las Horas really stands out. It was built between the 11th and 13th century. The main road into the village winds upwards towards it. The tower is what remains of the castle, which was destroyed during the Catalan civil war in the 15th century. It was then converted into a Gothic-style bell tower, which explains its name: ‘Tower of the Hours’. In total, four towers are left from the original fortification and they are linked by its defensive stone walls.

The church of Sant Pere is over 1000 years old and is a mish mash of different architectural styles and it is built of stone from the old fortress. The are plenty of small artisan shops in town selling everything from souvenirs to the exceedingly popular Catalan pottery. Have a sit down at Placa Major and just look at the stunning surroundings, have a drink and relax for a while.

Pals also host some cool festivals during the year. In April or first part of May is the festival of the rice. There are tours, cookery courses and the local restaurants make sure to celebrate the main produce of town, the might rice grain. The Vivid Wine festival takes place in the whole Costa Brava region in April as well. In June is the sowing of the rice festival, where you can experience how the rice was planted in the olden days. The cheese and wine fair is at the end of August. The rice harvest is in October. Apart from all the gastronomic events there is one special even in mid-August, the Nit d’Espelmes is the night when all town is lit by over 10 000 candles that gives a special town an even more special atmosphere.

In most towns we visit we like to just get a little lost and walk the backstreets and alleys to explore, not just the main squares and streets. Pals is like a time machine, had it not been for the occasional moped and car parked in the alleys, we could just as well have been walking around in the 15^th century. We visited Pals in the afternoon, and we had most of the town to ourselves, most of the day trippers had gone home, and it was very peaceful to walk around and just feel the history of the place.  

We ended our visit at a shop who had a lovely Spanish old lady who sold local produce and ice cream, we happily wandered off with wonderful home-made cones of delish frozen goodness.

Barcelona Hotels

Barcelona is one of our favourite cities in Europe. The combination of bars, restaurants, hotels, shopping, and a great big beach in the city centre, what is not to like? Throw in one of the most iconic buildings in the world, the Sagrada Familia, a world class football team and some of the best food in Spain, and you have the ultimate city break destination.

There are plenty of hotels in Barcelona, that goes without saying, and we have only stayed at a little handful. As a first-time visitor it is always hard to know where to stay and what hotel to choose. Here is our little list of hotels we have had the pleasure of staying in, from luxury to simplicity.

Hotel 1898

The most luxurious of hotels, hotel 1898 is nestled in the heart of Barcelona, right on the Rambla itself. Just steps from the main hub of Placa de Catalunya. It was once the headquarters of the General Philippines Tobacco Company, and in 2005 following extensive renovation the building was reborn with colonial flair as Hotel 1898. For us, the biggest selling point is the location, smack bang in the middle of Barcelona, and the magnificent rooftop bar and pool.

The views from La Isabella Terrace are breath-taking, and to lounge here in the afternoon after a hard day of sightseeing and shopping feels opulent and decadent. Our plush room had a small French balcony and views straight down on the Rambla, the only downside to being on this side of the hotel is that the underground runs under the Rambla, and you can feel and hear each train rumbling down the hill. If you are staying at the hotel, ask for a room in the side street or at the back, the views are a little less spectacular, but you will sleep better. Just around the corner is the spectacular Mercat de la Boqueria market and if you walk out of the lobby to the left there is a cosy small placa with small restaurants and bars, a perfect place for a drink or a coffee.

Hotel H10 Universitat

Our favourite budget option is the H10 Universitat a few metres from the main hub in Barcelona, Placa de Catalunya. The H10 chain have many hotels around Spain, and we tend to choose them when we can, the quality and price is always great. The Universitat has everything you need for a good stay, nice rooms, great location, a fine breakfast, and a cool roof terrace with nice views over the Barca skyline towards the sea. What more can you need?

Hotel Catalonia Ramblas

Just a literal stone throw from the Universitat is the Catalonia Ramblas hotel. A little more upscale with modern rooms and conference facilities, this hotel has a pool area, though not on the roof. The spa is genuinely nice after a hard day of doing nothing in Barcelona. A big plus if you want some luxury and possibility of cooling off in private is that they have some very cool suites who have their own private plunge pools.

W Barcelona

The W Barcelona is hard to miss in the skyline of the city. The sail like building in the harbour gives all rooms a spectacular view of the sea, city and beach. It is pure luxury and indulgence with pools, decks, and parties 24/7 in the summer. If your scene is beach clubs, cabanas, drinks service and untz untz untz until the sun comes up, this is the hotel for you. We had to try it, just for the views, we are not the core customer at W, and we felt a bit out of place. The hotel is spectacular, but for us it was a bit wrong (or we were wrong for it) and the fact that the hotel is a long walk from the city centre, makes it a beach and club goers hotel, not an ideal hotel for a mini city break, but a great beach hotel!

Barcelona is one of our favourite cities in Europe. The combination of bars, restaurants, hotels, shopping, and a great big beach in the city centre, what is not to like? Throw in one of the most iconic buildings in the world, the Sagrada Familia, a world class football team and some of the best food in Spain, and you have the ultimate city break destination.

There are plenty of hotels in Barcelona, that goes without saying, and we have only stayed at a little handful. As a first-time visitor it is always hard to know where to stay and what hotel to choose. Here is our little list of hotels we have had the pleasure of staying in, from luxury to simplicity.

Hotel 1898

The most luxurious of hotels, hotel 1898 is nestled in the heart of Barcelona, right on the Rambla itself. Just steps from the main hub of Placa de Catalunya. It was once the headquarters of the General Philippines Tobacco Company, and in 2005 following extensive renovation the building was reborn with colonial flair as Hotel 1898. For us, the biggest selling point is the location, smack bang in the middle of Barcelona, and the magnificent rooftop bar and pool.

The views from La Isabella Terrace are breath-taking, and to lounge here in the afternoon after a hard day of sightseeing and shopping feels opulent and decadent. Our plush room had a small French balcony and views straight down on the Rambla, the only downside to being on this side of the hotel is that the underground runs under the Rambla, and you can feel and hear each train rumbling down the hill. If you are staying at the hotel, ask for a room in the side street or at the back, the views are a little less spectacular, but you will sleep better. Just around the corner is the spectacular Mercat de la Boqueria market and if you walk out of the lobby to the left there is a cosy small placa with small restaurants and bars, a perfect place for a drink or a coffee.

Hotel H10 Universitat

Our favourite budget option is the H10 Universitat a few metres from the main hub in Barcelona, Placa de Catalunya. The H10 chain have many hotels around Spain, and we tend to choose them when we can, the quality and price is always great. The Universitat has everything you need for a good stay, nice rooms, great location, a fine breakfast, and a cool roof terrace with nice views over the Barca skyline towards the sea. What more can you need?

Hotel Catalonia Ramblas

Just a literal stone throw from the Universitat is the Catalonia Ramblas hotel. A little more upscale with modern rooms and conference facilities, this hotel has a pool area, though not on the roof. The spa is genuinely nice after a hard day of doing nothing in Barcelona. A big plus if you want some luxury and possibility of cooling off in private is that they have some very cool suites who have their own private plunge pools.

W Barcelona

The W Barcelona is hard to miss in the skyline of the city. The sail like building in the harbour gives all rooms a spectacular view of the sea, city and beach. It is pure luxury and indulgence with pools, decks, and parties 24/7 in the summer. If your scene is beach clubs, cabanas, drinks service and untz untz untz until the sun comes up, this is the hotel for you. We had to try it, just for the views, we are not the core customer at W, and we felt a bit out of place. The hotel is spectacular, but for us it was a bit wrong (or we were wrong for it) and the fact that the hotel is a long walk from the city centre, makes it a beach and club goers hotel, not an ideal hotel for a mini city break, but a great beach hotel!

Alella Wine District

The cool thing about Barcelona is that you can find world class wine areas just a short taxi ride from the city centre. North of Barcelona is the little village of Alella, just about 18 kilometres by car, or around 20 minutes depending on traffic.

Alella is a small town surrounded by unspoilt nature and standing on the hills surrounding the town you can see down towards the Mediterranean Sea. The tranquility of the area, and the closeness to Barcelona attracted many wealthy families who built their second homes here, and there are plenty of manor houses and villas in both historic and modern styles around town.

Alella and the Maresme region has a long history of wine making and it was with great pride that the region was one of the first in Catalonia to obtain the prestigious qualification of protected area as Denomination of Origin Alella. It has 8 wineries, and 6 of those are organic, and they produce some of the best wines.

We have visited one of the wineries, the Alta Alella. It is the closes winery to Barcelona, located in a national park, and it is family run and fully organic. The wines they produce are some of the best we have tasted. Their cava wines are sublime, and they add no sulphites to their wines. We would highly recommend a tour and tasting, it is so cool to see the cellars, vineyard and the tasting takes place in their very chic glass house built into the hill. If you are a small group, you can also rent an exclusive tasting and lunch and the vineyard.

The city centre of Alella bustles with small cosy restaurants in a small plaza, and of course lots of wine shops and wine bars who serve the local produce. A great day trip from Barcelona city centre.