Early Start (and a Forgotten Toothbrush)

Another early morning departure — so early that Ørjan forgot some toiletries in the hotel bathroom — and we were off from Queenstown, heading towards Twizel.

Breakfast in Historic Arrowtown

We’d read that Arrowtown was a great place to visit and an ideal breakfast stop, so we took the short drive from Queenstown. Arrowtown is a charming old gold mining town that’s kept much of its frontier vibe.

Buckingham Street is the main strip, lined with cozy cafés and little shops. We grabbed some muffins, took our coffees to go, and hit the road again — ready for a bit of nostalgia.

The Crown Range Road — Old Memories and Big Views

We were back on the Crown Range Road, a route we last drove 20 years ago. From Arrow Junction, the road winds and climbs toward the summit, offering incredible views over the valley below, Queenstown, and Lake Wakatipu.

We stopped at the Crown Range Road Scenic Lookout for an alfresco breakfast in the chilly wind — not the warmest meal, but definitely one with a view!

The drive continues through narrow valleys, full of twists and turns. If you go this way, keep an eye out for cyclists — there are plenty of blind bends.

Through the Cardrona Valley

The Cardrona Valley was lush and green, though full of roadworks — as most of New Zealand seems to be! After sheep, we reckon roadwork bollards are the second most common roadside sight.

Wanaka — Chill Vibes and “That Tree”

Wanaka sits beautifully between mountains on the shores of Lake Wanaka. It’s a stunning little town, more laid-back than its bigger brother, Queenstown.

Our first stop was, of course, That Wanaka Tree. It’s probably the most photographed tree in New Zealand, with its own Google Maps tag and a steady crowd of influencers and tourists. The scene was both impressive and a little sad — so many people trampling its roots and even hanging from its branches. We hung back, amused, watching small groups of influencer girls striking poses and changing outfits for that perfect Insta shot.

Toasties, Ice Cream, and Lake Views

Wanaka itself was awesome. We parked along the esplanade and found The Alleyway, home of the best toasties ever. Naturally, this was followed by ice cream and a lazy sit on a shady bench overlooking the lake.

On the Road to Twizel

From Wanaka, there are two main routes — one over Haast Pass to the wild West Coast, or inland toward Twizel and Mount Cook.

We’d done the West Coast back in 2005 (spectacular!), but this time the forecast promised clear skies around Mount Cook, and we were itching to walk the Hooker Valley Track.

So, we drove through Lindis Pass to Omarama and continued along Highway 8 to Twizel.

A Cozy Hut and a “Home-Cooked” Feast

We tried to get two nights in Mount Cook Village, but the options were either crazy expensive or just bunk rooms. Twizel won! We found a small hut in a quiet neighborhood — super cozy — and were thrilled to spot a BBQ in the yard.

Dinner was pork chops on the grill, with homemade tzatziki and Greek salad. It felt amazing to have a proper “home-cooked” meal after so many restaurant stops. The domestic bliss continued with a washing machine (finally clean clothes!) and the neighbor’s dogs barking cheerfully at whoever walked by.

Under the Stars in Twizel

That night the sky was crystal clear. Twizel sits right in the center of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, one of the best places in the world for stargazing. Minimal light pollution and endless stars — pure magic.

A perfect end to another unforgettable day on the road in New Zealand.

Tomorrow: The Hooker Valley Track!