Arrival on the Wild West Coast

Hokitika sits on the north bank of the Hokitika River, right where it flows into the Tasman Sea.

The town grew rapidly during the West Coast gold rush of the 1860s, and in 1866 it reportedly had a population of around 50,000 during the boom. As of the 2018 census, the urban area had nearly 2,900 people.

The name Hokitika comes from Māori — hoki (to return) and tika (straight or direct) — roughly translating to “return directly.”

A Perfect Base for Exploring

Hokitika’s location makes it an excellent base for exploring the West Coast of New Zealand. We loved the small-town vibe, and when we found our favorite little townhouse, we booked three nights right away. We knew one day would bring torrential rain, but the second day looked more promising — a good balance for a mix of cozy downtime and adventure.

The Search for Greenstone

We wanted to buy a piece of greenstone (pounamu) in New Zealand, and Hokitika turned out to be the perfect place to find the ultimate travel token. The nearby Arahura River, just north of town, has long been a source of pounamu, an important Māori cultural treasure.

Pounamu carving and trade are distinctive local crafts, and Hokitika is one of the main towns where you’ll find greenstone jewelry and art. There are galleries that offer carving workshops and shops filled with stunning pieces.

We found a beautiful greenstone rock carved with a small koru — a spiral shape based on the unfurling silver fern frond. It represents new life, growth, strength, peace, and the idea of perpetual movement and change in the cycle of life. We found that meaning deeply fitting, and the piece now sits on our shelf of travel memories here in Norway.

Festivals and Beachside Art

Hokitika hosts the annual Wildfoods Festival, a quirky and beloved event that draws foodies and curious visitors alike. Another creative highlight is the Driftwood and Sand Festival, a week-long sculpture event where art meets the wild West Coast.

When we walked the beach esplanade, we could still see remnants of driftwood art scattered along the sand — alongside the town’s iconic Hokitika driftwood sign.

A Rainy Day Plan

During our indoor, rain-soaked day of reading, we debated what to do if the weather cleared. Driving south toward the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers was tempting, but we’d been there before — and the forecast down south looked just as wet.

Instead, we decided on Hokitika Gorge, with a few side quests along the way. It meant less driving, no stress, and more time to explore Hokitika itself.

The town still has some cool old buildings from the gold rush era, including the old Customhouse and the clock tower.

History and Culture

The Hokitika Museum, housed in a striking building that was once the Hokitika Carnegie Library, featured a fascinating exhibition on the history of pounamu. The displays included ancient carved pieces — from war clubs to pendants and figures — all beautifully presented.

Simple Pleasures and Friendly Faces

We tried the local fish and chips shop, where the fish was golden, fresh, and cooked to perfection.

Later, we walked to the river mouth and chatted with a couple of fellow travelers from the USA — who, like us, weren’t too thrilled about their new president.

We wrapped up the day with coffee and muffins at a small café run by the sweetest, funniest elderly lady. Encounters like that are the heart of small-town travel.

Reflections on Hokitika

Hokitika has a relaxed feel, a strong artistic community, and a deep connection with its natural surroundings. We loved spending a few quiet days there — it felt like a pause in the rush of travel.

We imagine that in summer, the town buzzes with energy, filled with holidaymakers in every restaurant and bar along the beach. But for us, Hokitika’s charm lay in its peaceful rhythm and its creative, welcoming spirit.