Prologue

While staying in Hokitika, we began discussing when we should take the ferry from the South Island to the North Island. Our itinerary allowed for five weeks to explore both islands, and by this point we had already spent about two weeks on the South Island.

We checked the two ferry companies operating between Picton on the South Island and Wellington on the North Island. Prices for a car and two passengers varied dramatically depending on the day—weekends were far more expensive than weekdays. Eventually, we booked a Friday-lunchtime departure, which gave us just one day to drive from Hokitika up the West Coast, cross the mountains, and end up somewhere near Picton. We chose Blenheim.

The decision came down to bad weather moving in, a desire to head north for warmer temperatures, and ferry prices. Unfortunately, it meant skipping Abel Tasman National Park this time.

The West Coast Drive

We started early from Hokitika to make the most of what would be a long day of driving. The reward? Some of the world’s most spectacular roads and coastal scenery.

North of Greymouth, the highway meets the coastline again, revealing views that appear around every corner. Lookouts such as Nine Mile offer world-class panoramas of the Tasman Sea crashing into the rugged, lush green coast.

Pancake Rocks and the Pororari River Track

We had planned a stop at Pancake Rocks, arriving early meant we almost had the whole place to ourselves, read more about our visit here.

Just minutes up the road is the trailhead to the Pororari River Track, a family tradition on all our New Zealand trips. You can read more about our hike here.

From Punakaiki northwards, the coastal drive rivals California’s famed Highway 1—and we should know, having driven it several times. “Breathtaking” barely captures the feeling of watching waves lap so close to the car window you could almost reach out and touch them.

There are countless places to stop—beaches to wander and picnic spots to enjoy.

When the most dramatic parts of the coast road ended, we took a detour out to the beaches and coastal walk at Cape Foulwind. Read more about this fun, easy hike here.

Westport to the Buller Gorge

Passing through Westport, we had hoped for good coffee, but the options were underwhelming. We pushed on, determined to find a pleasant alfresco spot before we got too hangry.

We eventually found a beautiful spot at Lower Buller Gorge with sweeping views down the valley.

Following the Buller River, we passed through Murchison. At Kawatiri, we turned right onto Highway 63 and continued up the valley with the river still our companion. We passed the alpine village of St Arnaud, sitting at the northern end of Lake Rotoiti.

Into the Wairau Valley and Wine Country

Soon the road began following the Wairau River and the broadening Wairau Valley. As the valley opened up, vineyards appeared—mile after mile of grape-laden vines. We recognised several labels we’ve enjoyed back home in Norway; Matua was the most familiar.

We arrived at our hotel in the early evening after an epic full day’s drive. Without stops, the journey would have taken just over five hours—less if we had skipped the coastal road via Westport and taken Highway 7 from Greymouth via Reefton.

We picked up Hell Pizza, conveniently located across the road from a supermarket where we stocked up for the ferry crossing the next day.

The following morning, we wandered around Blenheim’s town centre. There were plenty of excellent breakfast spots and great coffee. The town felt pleasant, slightly upscale, and offered a good range of accommodation.

Crossing the Cook Strait

The drive from Blenheim to Picton takes about 25 minutes. Two companies operate car and passenger ferries across the Cook Strait—Interislander and Bluebridge. We chose Interislander based on price and schedule, and booked a small cabin with two beds, perfect for an overseas-style nap.

The crossing takes around three and a half hours and can range from rough to serene. We were lucky enough to enjoy calm seas.

Thank You, South Island — Epilogue

Leaving the South Island was bittersweet. We had spent an incredible two weeks exploring breathtaking landscapes, unforgettable vistas, and drinking more coffees than we can count. If we’d known then what we learned three weeks later, we might have stayed longer—perhaps added a few days in Abel Tasman National Park or spent more time further south on the West Coast.

But hindsight is 20/20. At the time, with autumn creeping in across the South Island and warmer weather calling from the north, moving on felt right. It was mid-March, after all.

We stood on the ferry deck, waving goodbye to the South Island—one of the most epic places on Earth, and, in a way, Middle-earth as well.

Farewell, South Island—watching the coastline fade as we head toward Wellington.