The Waipoua Forest (often called the Waipoua Kauri Forest) is one of New Zealand’s most extraordinary natural areas, famous for its ancient kauri trees—some of the largest and oldest trees on Earth. It remains one of the last strongholds of native kauri ecosystems.

We have visited this forest before, in 1997 and again in 2005, and each time we are struck by the sheer beauty of the landscape and the giants that rule within.

A Scenic Drive Through the Forest

State Highway 12, which runs through the forest, is a must-drive for any visitor to New Zealand. From Dargaville through Waipoua Forest to Omapere, the route offers spectacular sights, sweeping vistas, and access to memorable hikes.

We made our first stop at the Waipoua River Bridge, drawn in by the sheer abundance of beautiful tree ferns. We’ve always loved New Zealand’s spectacular ferns, and this spot reminded us of the Forgotten World Highway we had driven just a few weeks earlier.

Te Matua Ngahere – The Father of the Forest

Our first short hike began from a nearby parking area and led us to Te Matua Ngahere (“Father of the Forest”), one of the widest trees in the world, estimated to be over 2,000 years old.

The walk itself was an easy 20 minutes each way, along gravel and wooden tracks that wind through epic native bush and towering kauri trees.

Te Matua Ngahere is so immense it takes your breath away—even at a distance. It has the presence of a king; you can feel it.

In Māori mythology, Te Matua Ngahere is a powerful and ancient presence associated with the forests and all living things within them. He represents the life force (mauri) of the forest and the ancestral presence within ancient trees.

Tāne Mahuta – Meeting a Living Deity

Just a few minutes’ drive up the road is the parking area and short walk to one of the most awe-inspiring beings in the forest: Tāne Mahuta.

It is not often that you get to visit a deity, and for us it was like seeing an old friend again.

Tāne Mahuta is a major figure in Māori cosmology, revered as the god of forests and birds. Central to many creation stories, he is best known for separating his sky father Ranginui and earth mother Papatūānuku, bringing light and space into the world.

This tree is the largest known living kauri—about 51 meters tall and over 13 meters in girth.

An Experience Beyond Words

There is no way to fully describe in writing—or capture in photos—just how impressive this living being is. It is a force of nature. You can feel the presence of the power that lies beneath the bark.

Standing at its base, there is a deep sense of awe, respect, and reverence. Once again, we found ourselves standing with mouths agape in our encounter with Tāne Mahuta.