A Weekend in Auckland

First Impressions: Then vs Now

Auckland has inevitably changed since we first visited as backpackers on a shoestring budget in 1997. Even then, it was already New Zealand’s biggest city—but compared to today, it felt smaller, less dense, and far less urbanised. Our first impression back then wasn’t particularly great.

The year 1997 is actually a useful benchmark, as it marked the opening of the iconic Sky Tower and the beginning of a more modern skyline. At the time, the city was still relatively low-rise apart from this new landmark.

When we returned in 2005, we made our way to the top of the Sky Tower and took in the views of a changing city, including the newly developed harbour area built for the America’s Cup sailing competition.

Since then, Auckland has experienced a major boom in high-rise construction, particularly in the CBD. Many of today’s tallest buildings were completed in the last decade (2010s–2020s), giving the city a denser, more “global” feel. The central city has also evolved—from being mostly office-based to a vibrant mix of apartments, hotels, and commercial spaces.

Back in the mid-1990s, Auckland had fewer than one million residents. Today, it is home to around 1.7–1.8 million people—over a third of New Zealand’s population.

A City Rediscovered

After spending three days in Auckland, we came away with a genuine appreciation for a transformed city. It now has a vibrant urban heart and soul—something we didn’t quite feel during our first visit in 1997.

Britomart: The Beating Heart

Britomart quickly became our favourite area. It’s Auckland’s trendiest downtown district—a place where historic waterfront buildings meet modern city life. Locals come here to eat, shop, commute, and socialise.

The nine-block precinct is filled with pedestrian-friendly streets, laneways, and lively public squares. We especially loved the abundance of great restaurants, bars, and shops—not to mention the excellent Saturday market held in Takutai Square.

A Perfect Stay at Hotel Britomart

We decided to splurge on our final nights in New Zealand and booked a room overlooking Takutai Square, with views stretching across Britomart and out to the harbour.

The Hotel Britomart felt like a slice of New York cool transplanted into New Zealand. It’s easily one of the nicest hotels we’ve stayed in during all our travels—and the perfect place to end five weeks on the road.

Spotting Hipsters in Ponsonby

Being slightly old-school hipsters ourselves, we tend to seek out neighbourhoods with good coffee, great food, and interesting shops. Ponsonby did not disappoint.

We took the bus from the CBD to the northern end of Ponsonby Road, near College Hill. From here, you get fantastic elevated views of the city centre and harbour. We spent a few hours browsing boutiques, sipping coffee, and enjoying a relaxed lunch at Bodega Deli overlooking Western Park.

It’s the kind of place we could easily imagine living.

Auckland Eats: Our Favourites

Auckland has no shortage of great places to eat and drink. Here are some of our favourites from our time in Britomart:

Daily Bread (Britomart): A fantastic bakery chain serving excellent coffee, baked goods, and breakfast and lunch options.

St Pierre’s Sushi & Bento: A no-frills chain of restaurants , hole-in-the-wall spot for quick sushi and bento. We arrived hungry and left very satisfied.

Duck Island Ice Cream: Our go-to for gelato—so good we went more than once. Conveniently located just across from our hotel.

The Brit Pub & Eatery: A large, modern pub with a great selection of beer and cider. Their pizza was outstanding, especially with the weekly 2-for-1 deal.

Hello Beasty: Our absolute favourite in Auckland—and one of the best meals of our entire New Zealand trip. East Asian–New Zealand fusion unlike anything we’ve had before, with incredible service and a dessert so good it nearly made us cry.

Final Thoughts

Before arriving in New Zealand, we debated how much time to spend in Auckland. Based on our earlier visits, we assumed one or two nights would be enough.

We’re so glad we changed our minds.

Three nights gave us the chance to experience a vibrant, modern city with plenty to offer. Britomart stood out as our favourite area, and we’re especially happy we treated ourselves to a stay at Hotel Britomart.