There are som many epic moments to be had while on the road in the US. We have done a few fantastic trips on a motorbike and in a car. To try and collect a few highlights is more or less impossible. Some times is the strange that you remember, some times it is the total overwhelming feeling of greatness that overhwelms you while driving. We have cried, we have been stuck on the 7 Mile Brige on our way to Key West, we have staddled the edge of Grand Canyon several times and we have crossed the great state of Texas. Here are some of the top moments that we will remeber for ever.
1. “Look guys, it’s snowing!”
On our Las Vegas Loop tour we were spending the night at Bryce Canyon, it was cold when we arrived in the evening but we did not expect a total whiteout the next morning.
Not something you would like to hear during breakfast, when you are riding on Harleys, or even in a car for that matter. At breakfast the snow started falling like big pieces of fluff, and a stampede ensued. Since there was dense fog in the park (no visibility) and snow rapidly making the road white, we decided to pack up with great rush, and get on our bikes before we snowed in. After some miles, the snow subdued, and we thought we were home safe. We continued west on Highway 12 via Escalante via Boulder to Torrey, a truly magnificent piece of road. Please visit this site and read up on dirt track roads, treks and sights along the way.
What we did not realize was that we had to cross the Boulder Mountain on the way, and here the elevation is 9600 feet (almost 3000 meters) above sea level! So needless to say, it started snowing again. It got whiter and whiter, people in the cars coming the other way could not believe their eyes when 7 Harleys came riding into the snow. It got to the point where we could not stop, and we dared not turn around, so we continued. At the peak the snow in the road was about a foot (33 cm) and we all ended up like snowmen on Harleys. Our shins covered in ice, faces white with frost, but WE ARE THE VIKINGS! All survived the ordeal, but some of the group regretted not wearing their wooly long johns and thermal sweaters. In Torrey we raided the local petrol station for all the cold weather gear they had, blankets and extra gloves please! At Castlerock Coffee by the crossroads at Torrey we got hot chocolate and espresso, and Hank the cowboy came in the door and our day was made. Cowboys are real!
2 & 3. Moki Dugway and Monument Valley approach
Two very spectacular stretches of road coming in close proximity of each other, we did the Moki Dugway on motorbikes as part of the Las Vegas Loop, and we did Monument Valley on 3 different occations, two on motorbikes and once in a car. High Desert Adventure was our third visit.
We started the day by crossing Lake Powell on the ferry. It’s a nice start to the day. You will continue to ride the 276 until it meets the 95 again, and you need to do a right. After a few miles on the 95 you will get to a crossing, you can continue the 95 towards Blanding or you can take a right turn on the 261 for a real ADVENTURE! It’s the road to Mexican Hat, and it will yield a gift like you’ve never seen before. You will drive a bit on gravel here, on switchbacks galore down a steep mountain side, so if you’re not up for a bit of gravel driving, continue to Blanding. If you take a right you will encounter the Moki Dugway.
If you have the nerve, it’s worth it, the views from the top towards Monument Valley and Mexican Hat are unparalleled, and just breathtaking. Continue down the switchbacks towards Mexican Hat and do a right on the 163. In Mexican Hat you will cross the San Juan River, and on the riverbank under a cliff there is good food to be had at San Juan Inn.
When you continue on the 163 you will soon have Monument Valley buttes on your horizon. You will know it when you see it, maybe this is one of the most spectacular bits of road anywhere. You will know when you get to THAT point, the point where Forest Gump gave up jogging across USA. There will be hundreds of people (well at least 20-30 people) in the road taking pictures. Stop just after you have rounded the crest, there are plenty of parking opportunities on the shoulder of the road. Just look out for local cars, they tend to speed through just to intimidate the tourists. Photo ops galore here. Continue straight (not many more options) until you get to Oljato Monument Valley, the small settlement, then you do a left towards Monument Valley Tribal Park and The View hotel and campgrounds. This is not an American national park, it’s run by the Navajo tribe, so here your national parks pass wont work. Expect to pay USD 10 per person for entering.
4. Lost Coast Northern California
Perhaps one of the finest detours we have ever taken as part of our Seattle to San Francisco roadtrip. We stumbled upon this when reading up on Northern California. It’s a hidden gem of a road, and it’s a bit tricky to find. But when you do, it’s worth it. Drive south out of Eureka, down to Fernbridge and the 211 to Ferndale, once on Main Street it’s a bit tricky to find exactly where to take a right and continue the road that’s called both the 211, the Wildcat rd. and the Mattole rd., it will take you over the mountain to Capetown (not a big place). The road will again take you along the coast after tackling the mountain road, but this is truly the Lost Coast, and if you see more than two cars on the whole road, it’s considered busy. Drive to Petrolia and on to Honeydew (it has a small old convenience store by the bridge) and over the mountains again. If you are a sucker for the roads less travelled, this is the one road you need to go! The nice surprise when you cross the mountains, is that you suddenly are smack bang in the redwoods. Without the crowds! You will join the 101 just north of Weott and the visitor centre for the Humbolt Redwoods State Park, drive the 254 also called Avenue Of The Giants, due to the amount of giant redwoods along the road. Stop at your leisure to see and explore the redwoods, but if you’re like us, you would have stopped earlier when the crowds where less. Drive down to Leggett and take a right on Highway 1 down to the coast again. The coast is dotted with small villages where the people of San Fran like to hang out during the summer weekends. We chose Mendocino just because it came highly recommended, and it looked nice. We had luck and got a room at MacCallum House with a bathtub and nice views.
5. Route 66 from Seligman to Oatman
It’s THE American dream, it’s the backbone of the world’s popular biker culture. Its embedded in the minds of every Harley rider across the globe. The mighty Route 66, running from Chicago to Los Angeles. The highway, which is of the most famous roads in the United States and maybe the world, originally ran from Chicago to Los Angeles, covering a total of 2,448 miles (3,940 km). It is the dream of most Harley Davidson riders to ride the mother road at least once in their lifetime, a few gets to ride it, most just dream it. Getting your kicks on Route 66 does not necessarily mean riding all the way from Chicago to LA, it’s a long ride, and there is not so many parts of the original road left that are ridable. Mainly its Interstate that’s been either paved over the original, or the original has been bypassed by the Interstate, and fallen into disrepair. BUT there is a glorious bit that is easily accessible from Las Vegas, and one more bit we have done between Albuquerque and Gallup in New Mexico.
We have never been the whole Route 66, I am not sure if its an ambition to do the whole thing from Chicago to Los Angeles, maybe we will someday. Here is the tale of maybe the finest, and longest preserved bit of the original Mother Road. And, a shorter story about another, nice, but not so spectacular bit.
Historic Route 66 from Seligman to Oatman
We have done this bit by both car and Harley, of course the latter is the way to do it for sure, but not all have their license for riding motorbikes, so a car with no top on will do the trick as well. Its not too far from Las Vegas and can be done on a return trip to Grand Canyon for instance. There is no problem driving from Las Vegas to Grand Canyon via Kingman and Seligman on the way there in a day, and then spend the night in Grand Canyon, and drive back again on the Interstate on the way back. Stop at the Hoover Dam on the way. And drive from Kingman to Oatman on the way back if you want that bit too, it’s worth the detour.
In 1978 Seligman was cut off from the world, the new I40 was opened, and all traffic that had given the town its life, was gone. Once a thriving small town on Route 66 was almost forgotten. The Historic Route 66 Association Of Arizona later persuaded the state of Arizona to list Route 66 as an historic highway, and now many seeking nostalgia stop in Seligman. Its also said that the animated film Cars from Disney, takes its town Radiator Springs from Seligman. You will see cars with eyes parked many places in town. Stop for a burger and a wander in the historic district of Seligman.
From Seligman you drive towards Peach Springs, after Crozier and Valentine, be on the lookout for Hackberry General Store, and be prepared to stop. It’s a must see with its old charm, old cars and signs, petrol pumps and be sure to check out the bathroom décor.
Keep riding until you get to Kingman, and ride on until you get to the historic district. We spent the night in Kingman on one of our trips, we came from Grand Canyon, and after a long day it was a good place to stop. But we have also gone past it and kept on riding to Lake Havasu via Oatman. Anyhow, when in Kingman, stop by the big old train by the road and take some pictures. Keep on trucking. Follow the signs for Route 66, it will be a left straight after the train, and then follow the road and river out of town. You will get parallel to I40 once again, and then duck under it, do a left, and head towards the mountains. After a long while you will hit one of the more infamous hills on Route 66, its steep, bendy and epic all the way up to the top of the hill. Fun to be had for all bikers! After the crest, the road will dip down toward Oatman.
When you enter Oatman, watch out for tourists and donkeys. Do not crash with an ass in Oatman, you will be shot by the sheriff if you do. Parking is notorious difficult, due to the many daytrippers from Las Vegas, the town is kinda wild west, but still gets over half a million visitors a year. There are funny shops, lots of donkeys (only feed them carrots!) and local residents dressed as cowboys. Part fascinating old world cowboy and gold mining city, part Westworld gone budget. Still, tie up the hog and enjoy a coke on the porch of The Oatman Hotel. And be sure to check out the interior.
After Oatman the road drops even more, do a lefty and head towards Topoc, where the road once again joins the I40.from here you can either head for Los Angeles, or you can do as we did, and head for a relaxing bath, drink and hotel at Lake Havasu. And that will be continued on another page and roadtrip her on this site.
I recommend this site for further reading.
Albuquerque to Gallup
We also did this bit of Route 66 on our way to Canyon De Chelly and Monument Valley (another page and roadtrip here on this website), done on Harleys rented from Eaglerider in Albuquerque.
Out of Albuquerque you ride the I40 for a while, until you get to Exit 114 to Laguna. Just by the off ramp they have great burgers, if you feel like some food. Stop in Laguna by the mission on the top of the hill on your left when you drive through the small town. It’s a great photo op.
The old Routhe 66 basically follows the I40 more or less the whole way, but without all the roadtrains and traffic. Just before McCartys you need to cross over the I40, the road has a dead end further up, so make sure to do this crossing. Afer McCartys you ride through an old lava field with black lava rocks all around the road. After a short while you will drive through Grants, it has a cool main street with many old motels and neon signs.
After Grants you can more or less just join the I40 until you reach Gallup. Also an old Route 66 town, it has some interesting bits, but many shops are closed, and it has a bit of a run down feel about it. We decided to stay at the historic Hotel el Rancho with its many stories about Hollywood actors staying there in the golden era of movies. The hotel itself has lost all of its golden era, and is now not much more than a second rate dodgy motel. Stay for the cool lobby, and to see the old motel signs on the road around El Rancho.
So, that was the other part of our Route 66 description.
Historic Route 66 Facts
U.S. Route 66 or U.S. Highway 66 (US 66 or Route 66), also known as the Will Rogers Highway, the Main Street of America or the Mother Road, was one of the original highways in the U.S. Highway System. US 66 was established on November 11, 1926, with road signs erected the following year. The highway, which became one of the most famous roads in the United States, originally ran from Chicago, Illinois, through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica in Los Angeles County, California, covering a total of 2,448 miles (3,940 km). It was recognized in popular culture by both the hit song “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66” and the Route 66 television series, which aired on CBS from 1960 to 1964. In John Steinbeck‘s classic American novel, The Grapes of Wrath (1939), the road “Highway 66” symbolized escape and loss.
US 66 served as a primary route for those who migrated west, especially during the Dust Bowl of the 1930s, and the road supported the economies of the communities through which it passed. People doing business along the route became prosperous due to the growing popularity of the highway, and those same people later fought to keep the highway alive in the face of the growing threat of being bypassed by the new Interstate Highway System.
US 66 underwent many improvements and realignments over its lifetime, but was officially removed from the United States Highway System in 1985after it had been replaced in its entirety by segments of the Interstate Highway System. Portions of the road that passed through Illinois, Missouri, New Mexico, and Arizona have been communally designated a National Scenic Byway by the name “Historic Route 66”, returning the name to some maps. Several states have adopted significant bypassed sections of the former US 66 into their state road networks as State Route 66. The corridor is also being redeveloped into U.S. Bicycle Route 66, a part of the United States Bicycle Route System that was developed in the 2010s. Source: Wikipedia
- Around The World
- Around The World 1997 Travel Diaries
- Big Cities
- El Paso Loop
- High Desert Adventure
- Highway 1
- Japan In 9 Days
- Japan Rail Pass
- Las Vegas Loop
- London, our second home
- New York
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- Route 66
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- Seattle To San Francisco
- Texas Traverse