After spending a weekend in Melbourne (read here) and a little over two weeks in Tasmania (read about it here), we landed in Christchurch on Sunday, the 9th of March. To say that we were excited would be an understatement!
The South Island has a way of pulling you back. Even after two previous trips, stepping off the plane in Christchurch felt like returning to a place we knew and loved—but also one that still held secrets around every bend.
What we planned as a tidy 12-day itinerary quickly became a lesson in embracing the unexpected. The weather shifted, our route changed, and the island once again reminded us that the best adventures are the ones you don’t script too tightly.
From swimming with dolphins at sunrise to racing across the island for a rare window of sunshine in Milford Sound, this trip was a whirlwind of mountains, marine life, movie magic, and road-trip joy.
Here’s how our South Island adventure unfolded—raw, real, and absolutely unforgettable.
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📍 March 9 — Arrival in Christchurch
From the airport, we drove to the nearest supermarket to stock up the car with water, food, and other necessities.
We then headed north toward Kaikōura, where our first major adventure awaited. Slightly knackered, we checked into the small and cozy Blue Seas Motel, getting ready for an early start the next morning.
Road-tripping north with that fresh-arrival excitement only New Zealand can give.
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📍 March 10 — Swimming with Dolphins in Kaikōura
A marine-life adventure kicking off our New Zealand experience. Read about our epic morning spent with hundreds of dolphins here.
A once-in-a-lifetime morning: hundreds of dolphins dancing around us in Kaikōura
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📍 March 10–11 — The Great South Island Pivot (Blame the Weather!)
Weather disrupted our plans and forced us to change our route. If there’s one thing you need to know before visiting the South Island, it’s that sooner or later the weather will make you rethink your best-laid plans.
The South Island had other plans—pivoting the entire itinerary thanks to moody weather
We had to pivot the entire length of the South Island to get a chance of good weather in Milford Sound. Read more about the Great Pivot here.
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📍 March 12 — The Road to Milford Sound & Milford Sound Cruise
The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is one of the most spectacular drives in the world. Read more about the drive here.
Driving into Middle-earth: the road to Milford Sound at its dramatic best
At the end of that drive is the legendary Milford Sound, where we enjoyed a beautiful cruise. Read more about that experience here.
Milford Sound magic—mist, mountains, waterfalls, and absolute awe
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📍 March 13 — Te Anau to Glenorchy & Queenstown Road Trip (LOTR Locations!)
Pure nerdy excitement for us LOTR fans! We tried to find the orc mound, saw Isengard, and drove through Lothlórien on this marvellous route. Read about near misses and cows on the road here.
On the hunt for orc mounds and Isengard—Glenorchy’s landscapes never disappoint
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📍 March 14 — One-Day Drive from Queenstown to Twizel
A morning coffee in Arrowtown, fabulous Lindis Pass scenery, that tree in Wanaka, and finally arriving in Twizel, where we rented a cute cabin for two days. Read about our day’s drive here.
That famous Wanaka tree—iconic for a reason
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📍 March 15 — Hooker Valley Track, Mount Cook
One of NZ’s most famous hikes—glacier views, swing bridges, alpine terrain, and pure epicness. A true trip highlight: an achievable day hike with a huge payoff. Read about our hike here.
Swing bridges, glacier air, and jaw-dropping views—Hooker Valley Track at its finest
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📍 March 16 — Finding Edoras (LOTR Again!)
A visit to the remote filming site of Edoras (Mt Sunday): a hike filled with elevenses, strong winds, spotting Helm’s Deep (sort of!), and joyful photo poses. Read about our nerding here.
Standing where Éowyn once stood—Edoras in all its windswept glory
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📍 March 17 — East to West via Arthur’s Pass
A dramatic cross-island drive åfrom the Canterbury Plains, with a short hike at Castle Rock, a rainy Arthur’s Pass (with no kea sightings!), and ending up in Hokitika. Read about our soggy adventure here.
Rain, clouds, and mountain roads—Arthur’s Pass showing its moody side
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📍 March 18 — Hokitika Rainy Day
Our first indoor day, spent in a wonderful townhouse in Hokitika—reading, washing clothes, and making our own dinner. Read about our Hokitika downtime here.
Sometimes the best travel days are the quiet ones
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📍 March 19 — Hokitika Gorge Hike + Side Quest: Dorothy Falls & Lake Kaniere
Hokitika Gorge is a stunning, easily accessible hike just a short drive from town. A great day out!
Turquoise waters and lush forest—Hokitika Gorge looking unreal as always
Read about our Hokitika Gorge hike here, and our side quest to Dorothy Falls and Lake Kaniere here.
Dorothy Falls and Lake Kaniere—short stops with big serenity
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📍 March 20 — West Coast Itinerary: Pororari River Walk, Pancake Rocks, Cape Foulwind → Blenheim
One of the longest and most spectacular days on the road—from Hokitika to Blenheim via the coastal highway.
The stunning Pancake Rocks (read here), the awesome Pororari River Walk (read here), a short walk at Cape Foulwind (read here), and then crossing over the Alps into wine country and Blenheim (read here).
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📍 March 21 — Ferry from Picton to Wellington
As the ferry pulled away from Picton and the mountains faded behind us, we realized we weren’t saying goodbye—we were simply pressing pause. This journey gave us dolphins, rainstorms, alpine tracks, Middle-earth moments, and more roadside coffees than we can count. But it also gave us something harder to describe: a renewed sense of wonder.
Goodbye, South Island—every farewell here feels like a promise to return
We may have thought we’d “done” the South Island after three visits, but writing this itinerary and reliving each day reminded us that this place will always have more to offer. More trails. More coastlines. More stories.
And one day, we know we’ll find ourselves back on its roads again.
Until then, we hope this guide helps you craft your own South Island adventure—one that’s as breathtaking, unpredictable, and joy-filled as ours.
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✅ Key Takeaways
🔥 The South Island is best explored by road
🌧 Weather demands itinerary flexibility
🎥 LOTR filming sites add extra magic
⛰ Hiking & scenery are core highlights
🌊 The West Coast surprises with raw beauty
🚗 The journey is as important as the destinations
Wremer Travels (yes, we do!) 
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