A Remote Coastal Gem in Northland

The Karikari Peninsula is a beautiful, relatively remote coastal region in the far north of New Zealand. It’s known for its rugged scenery, pristine beaches, and relaxed, off-the-grid feel.

There are plenty of the infamous New Zealand gravel roads here, adding to the sense of adventure. The whole peninsula feels remote and untouched, with a mix of holiday homes and small communities. We thought it would make a great detour on our way south from Cape Reinga—and it absolutely did.

Maitai Bay & Waikato Bay: Twin Coastal Highlights

Our first stop was the stunning twin bays of Maitai Bay and Waikato Bay.

Maitai Bay greeted us with calm, turquoise water and a golden beach—easily one of the most beautiful we saw in New Zealand. After a bit of encouragement from a fellow travel couple we met there, we took a refreshing swim.

Neighbouring Waikato Bay is equally breathtaking—a turquoise dream with a slightly more rugged feel. There’s also a lovely campsite here, and we immediately agreed we’d stay overnight next time. It’s simply a fabulous location.

Puwheke Beach: Wild, Quiet, and Expansive

We backtracked slightly and found another gravel road leading to Puwheke Beach.

Popular with anglers, it still feels wonderfully untouched. The beach stretches endlessly, with golden sand and wide horizons that make it feel vast and peaceful—a perfect spot to slow down and take it all in.

Respecting Sacred Land

The area is known to contain urupā (Māori burial grounds), which are tapu (sacred) sites where ancestors are laid to rest. Disturbing them—whether intentionally or accidentally—is taken very seriously.

It’s important to respect all signage and avoid any restricted areas.

A Return to Mangonui Fish Shop

We ended the day with a return visit to Mangonui Fish Shop—a place where we had what we still call the best fish and chips of the last century back in 1997.

Happily, it hasn’t lost its charm. The fish is still fresh and displayed at the counter—you simply point, and they fry it for you. We were recommended a delicious local fish (sadly, we’ve forgotten the name), but it was a perfectly flaky white fish served with classic fries.

With views over the bay and food that lived up to our memories, it was the perfect ending to a memorable day—just as good as we remembered from the late ’90s.